A new job remodeling a Stug

[Edwin]

Hallo Roman,

wie es pajak beschrieb sind dasSchwungmassen für eine echte Trägheit die ganz anders zu fahren ist als eine simulierte durch die Elektronik.

To be able to mount the gear ready I had to unscrew the holes in the pinion to 3.17 mm shaft diameter. The drilling works not so well through the transverse bore of the clamping and runs like.



And so I can now combine gears and motors.



Since inertia is something I must project beyond the transmission tilted code that into the Hull. The easiest way with a 3mm pad that I splicing with the mounting plate.





Shoring The axis I'm very easy again with epoxy putty and ball bearings under the countershaft covers.



The gearbox itself, of course, get a cover after I have it well lubricated. I had to adjust a little while. In each tank is different, but I think as the now looks quite acceptable.





Even the mounted control and sprockets and raised the chain.





So it goes in great steps to the first test drive, but previously been programmed the controller.



So I could move the Stug now today in a first test drive at 34 ° C in the shade on the grass, by the way .... without any heat problem with all parts.



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a1T2pki ... e=youtu.be

A few settings are still necessary, but it runs quite acceptable.

[Edwin]

And on it goes.

Now I have to construct a new cannon rocker with side direction of servo operation.

For this purpose, but one must first remove the cannon and that is something Trickie.

First one makes the front of the Karlotte the cover carefully. Among them are 2 screws one turn out.



Then you have at the bottom of the inside release a third screw and unscrew the cradle bearings from the roof. Then you can pull out the gun forward and screw the recoil from.





During this time, the first prototype on the printer was ever done.



But this is still a bit too long and does not fit properly.



Why I have not printed a second version fits much better







On the gun barrel I have ever stuck a brass tube as an extension lead.



Today I will then also a little concern myself more with the side straightening. I can then install separately from the Evolation.

[Edwin]

Now I do have first gone on with the electrical system a bit since my printer is busy.

First loaded and checked the new battery if it's okay. A complaint after the conversion is not recognized.
When I use Battery 8 cells Nihm what has turned out for me as perfect.



The battery I cut gently in the middle to shrink the tubing and wrinkle it easy from.





The sheet metal connector I turn wary of Poland from causing a short circuit without and loop to the now exposed terminals.





ZumVerlöten I use a cheap soldering iron from the hardware store. It is important in this is that he has at least 80-100 watts of power to the battery to be able to solder quickly and so gentle.



Before I connect the battery again I still need two matching of the length of cable which I well tin solder at both ends. It should not save the tin man. I also binge tin on the poles of the batteries, but always make sure they do not pay attention anyway just to close.



So I solder now always positive and negative poles of the battery opposite. In order to prevent a short circuit because I glue one end of the cable first from yet.





About the free ends I stick then duct tape and so the battery can now take place in the tank.



The last few days is also the Beier sound module and the station arrived.





The transmitter I have spent today first time to the charger. The sound module I install ever with all the cabling piece by piece.

[Edwin]

After the transmitter is now loaded I could him today programming and everything went as usual after a few small adjustments as it should.



The only little thing was a fuse. 20A is too little when you brake fully.



Now 30A are installed and that should hold.

Then the speaker was still in the series. First I glued the lid and made ​​the holes for the connecting cable. As damping insert a piece of filter for cooker hoods has proven to me.







Thus, the space in the tank is optimally utilized and also the upper tray fits perfectly on it.

[Edwin]

Once the lower hull with the associated technology is now almost ready today I have been interested in the programming of the sound module.



And of course, tried out in the wild.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BeEcjSF ... e=youtu.be

The final details are still lacking, but I'm then using the technique of upper hull.

[Edwin]

Currently I only had the time to construct a pivot for the carriage of Stugs.
However, the G-code for printing is also ready and maybe I can still make overnight.



There is now separated to Page Align the Stug the rocker and the pivot bearing can now be both, or just the rocker rebuild.

[Edwin]

The hinge was this morning then printed.



But to install it I had to prepare a few things. In the upper part disturbed nor the old fortifications and the box and the gunner's hatch had to get away.







In order to mount the mount to the pivot, I have this but not glue it and attach the holes for the screws.
First, pre-drill the joint with a 2mm drill.



Then put the gun mount it and this pierce to the hinge as a template it with the 2mm drill.



Last drill out the mount from the top with a 3mm drill.



So you can then glue the joint base to the hull top, put through the gun carriage from the front and befesigen with a screw. So you get a stable, smooth-joint to Page Aim ​​the cannon.





Next, the canon rocker stuck in the inner part of the mount, with 2mm pre-drilling and screw.







For installation of the rocker, I now had to cut a little bit. So the rocker but can be re-installed as described in the expansion.





I have already placed the servos to end for today.

[Edwin]

And again it is coming to a piece, none of completion.

Today I installed the three servos and also still the same program the Align to Page on the transmitter. So you can align with a knob at the side the gun now.



The Evolation and the RCC, I must still be programmed directly at Beier sound module, but before that I have the veritable camouflage headlight and the excess flash.
So I'm going to the Stug then can pass its owner in Derbach 23.

By the way I now also have the parts to Page Align optimized and started a few to print them for printing the canon and the rocker bearings somewhat.

[Edwin]

As I wrote yesterday sat down today and wired first, the LED `s.





After I again occupied myself with the settings on the sound module now works all the way I imagine it.
The cannon can be nice and slow in all directions move, the recoil works, save flash, I have thrown this time about the Beier sound module and the LED let a little longer than a normal flash light (for firing a gun also arises not so short flash as a Fotoapperat), the camouflage headlight can be turned on and a sound is active MG. A terminal for an MG I have programmed, but not connected to the LED in the viewing slot. No Stug there had a gun.

Now I just have to lay the cables and adjust so that everything without driving each other to work of disabled.

[sourekv]

Great, how tiny machine is this...